I've heard of people gorging themselves on chocolates, éclairs, napoléons, macarons, and every other conceivable sweet or pastry during trips to Paris. While I do love sweets, my tastes tend to gravitate towards the savory side, which translates into me not really having too many sweets while in Paris. In fact, it didn't even cross my mind to visit some of the renowned chocolatiers until I returned to South Florida and was asked by a good friend, "what about the chocolates there?" Oops! I'll get there the next time around, I promise.
Despite my preference for fromage over dessert after dinner, I do have a strong affinity for macarons ever since I tried my first one at the first Paul bakery in Aventura (now closed) with an. That being said, part of my Paris itinerary involved visiting Ladurée, which is credited for having invented the macaron, and is reputed to have some very creative flavors. Macarons, for the uninitiated, are about as far away from a macaroon (note the two o's) as prosciutto is from spam. Two light-as-air cookies made from whipped egg whites, sugar, and almond flour are sandwiched between a rich filling of a cream, purée, or jelly. Ladurée has several locations, but one of the most iconic ones is located on the famed Champs Elysées boulevard. The Momster and I stopped by for a break in their ornate tea room, but it was closed for restoration, so we got in line behind the 20 or more people waiting to buy boxes of Ladurée's famous macarons in beautifully gilded packaging. Apart from macarons, Ladurée also specializes in many other types of pastries and chocolates, which all look appealing until you get a glimpse of the main attraction...and then all other confections cease to exist in your mind.
Behind a glass partition, in neat rows that were constantly being replenished, were a variety of at least a dozen macarons no bigger in size than a silver dollar...perhaps even smaller. Descriptions like violet and cassis, caramel and fleur de sel, and chestnut and pear beckon seasoned gourmands and macaron initiates, alike. We purchased a box of 8 for 12 Euros to eat while strolling down Le Boulevard des Champs Elysées and were rewarded with perhaps the most exquisite confections I've ever had...except for maybe one. Naturally, I sampled the three macarons I mentioned above in addition to rose petal, orange blossom, raspberry, pistachio, and grapefruit/vanilla. The grapefruit and vanilla combination reminded me of why "greatfruit" was my least favorite fruit as a child, and unless you're a particular fan of the bitter flavor of this fruit that I never thought to be "great" (or anything like a grape, for that matter), I'd pass on it...that is, if they offer it again. The rest of the flavors were nothing short of heavenly, and each flavor evoked new waves of emotions and imagery. If poetry could be made into pastry it would look like a macaron from Ladurée.
A return visit on a Saturday afternoon to purchase boxes to bring back to Les Etats Unis proved to be too frustrating to attempt with a line out the door and locals shoving past polite groups of Japanese tourists to get inside; it was also three days before Valentine's Day, so that could explain the frenzy. Nevertheless, Ladurée, at least on the Champs Elysées, should be attempted on a weekday, preferably far from any holiday.
The other sweets place that I visited came highly recommended by Time Out Paris (with which I reconciled), a good friend in South Florida, and another French friend who had lived in Paris for several years. Additionally, it was just a short walk from Le Musée du Louvre and right across Rue de Rivoli from Le Jardin des Tuileries, making it a convenient place to break between the classical art gallery and the modern art gallery (The Pompidou Center) where we were going to next. Angelina is the name of the place, and while they do serve déjeuner (lunch), they are most known for their chocolat chaud à l'ancienne (hot chocolate). French hot chocolate is very much like Spanish hot chocolate, with which I had been more familiar with in Miami. It's thick - almost like a soup - and can congeal as it cools down. It's also very rich - so much so, in fact, that it's served with a dollop of unsweetened (or lightly sweetened) whipped cream to cut the richness. Angelina's version is notoriously rich, thick, and dark and is known as chocolat chaud l'africain. I needed to try this!
Along with the African hot chocolate, I ordered two of Angelina's signature pastries, the Mont Blanc. The waiter kind of smirked as he took the order and, hearing The Momster speak in English, mentioned "after Mont Blanc, no more hunger!" He was right. I wasn't hungry until about 9:00 PM that evening. I also had no desire to have anything sweet during the rest of my stay in Paris. The Mont Blanc was delicious! The chocolat chaud was superb! Both of them together? Bad idea. A Mont Blanc for each of us? An even worse idea.
Angelina's Mont Blanc was definitely one mountain that I could not conquer, and I was forced to leave half of it on the plate (The Momster devoured hers, but then she only had a light dinner that evening). It consists of a disk of crispy meringue (something familiar to almost every Latin American) topped with sweetened whipped cream and topped with "chestnut vermicelli" which are what American would just call chestnut paste squiggles. Having eating many Japanese wagashi (sweets) made with sweetened chestnut paste, I can safely say that no chestnut paste is sweeter or as rich as Angelina's. Apparently, it's quite famous, too, because you can buy it on its own in their boutique. The Mont Blanc is really an exemplary feat of patisserie and is something to be experienced when visiting Paris. However, it should be had with a coffee and not with hot chocolate. This can create a rather stressful predicament for a foodie with only a few days in Paris: chocolat chaud or Mont Blanc? Although the Mont Blanc is delicious, Angelina's hot chocolate is truly something not to be missed if you had to choose one thing to have at this iconic salon de thé. Arriving in a porcelain pitcher with a demitasse of freshly whipped cream, Angelina's chocolat chaud l'africain is a chocoholic's drinkable fantasy - strong chocolate with a velvety mouthfeel that gives you something close to a high as well as an understanding of why this is one of the world's most prized commodities. If you have to munch on something with your chocolat, I'd have a croissant. At the sweetest, I'd have a small financier or even a couple of macarons....anything but the Mont Blanc. In Paris, I've discovered, it's best to pace yourself when it comes to sweets. Don't do it all at the same time, and definitely not at the same place, for there is just too much to discover for someone with a sweet tooth in the City of Lights.
Ladurée
75 Avenue des Champs Elysées, Paris
Angelina
226 Rue de Rivoli, Paris
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